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I'm cementing some schedule 40 PVC pipe using the best instructions I could find ( http://www.tchristy.net/pdf/ChristysTechManual_v5_English.pdf ). The outside of each joint looks fine, but inside there's often a mess of plastic scrapings, PVC primer and PVC cement:

PVC Pipe Cement inside junction at stop

PVC Sprinkler Pipe

The dross could clearly affect water flow or clog a filter. I won't use PVC pipe for drinking water because of lead (See http://chej.org/2013/09/pvc-pipes-bringing-toxic-lead-to-drinking-water/ ), but for those that do, the bits of plastic in the water could be an issue.

I've already tried rotating less while inserting, but that's not always practical. I'm cutting pipe with a ratcheting PVC cutter and deburring with sandpaper.

How can I get better looking interior joints?

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Did you deburr the pipe after cutting it? How did you cut the pipe? –  Tester101 May 15 at 20:27
Answers above. The cutter is a big box special: a miserable tool not worth the low price. The cuts are clean though not particularly square. –  Bryce May 15 at 20:57
If you can get a miter saw to where you're working, that'd be good. –  Edwin May 15 at 21:13
It appears the primer is overly softening the fitting plastic. Apply primer to the pipe first and use only enough of both primer and cement to fully cover the mating surfaces. Try to work quickly once the primer is applied. –  bcworkz May 15 at 22:22
The purple primer/solvent instructions state they want a thick coat, no holidays, go over it twice. I'll try less solvent. Post primer I'm at 30 seconds before the joint is done. –  Bryce May 15 at 23:50

1 Answer 1

That level of glop is not normal.

Some things to check:

  1. Is the pipe end deburred? A file plus sandpaper to finish works well.
  2. Are the pipe & fittings dry? Water can do strange things to PVC cement.
  3. Be firm, but don't push too hard, and don't over rotate. 1/8 of a rotation is enough.
  4. Work quickly, but do let any residual drips in the primer evaporate before moving on to glue.
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