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I want to do what these people have done here:

enter image description here

The problem is I have bracing going diagonally and it is not leaving enough space for the 4" aluminum duct vent.

enter image description here

Can I saw the bracing off for the 1 section where I need to pass the pipe?

I assume not..

What else can I do ?

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Looking really closely at the sample picture that you showed it appears that the area where the duct is routed is using a 2x6 stud. –  Michael Karas Apr 17 at 1:53
    
Be careful of your length of run, it is not recommended to go over a certain amount of feet, usually 35 ft, and that is straight run only. THEN deduct an additional 5 ft for every elbow in the run. If it is possible, run the duct down and through a floor joist section out through a side wall. –  Jack Apr 17 at 12:07

4 Answers 4

up vote 2 down vote accepted

I wouldn't build it that way in the first place. Hiding a dryer duct within a wall and venting it through the roof (I'm guessing here, but that's what it looks like to me) is just begging for nobody to clean it until it eventually catches fire and burns the house down.

I recently re-did my utility room and discovered an in-wall rigid steel duct just like the one in your picture which vented through the roof. Clearly nobody ever cleaned it due to the annoyance of having to get up on the roof, and as a result it was entirely blocked by lint and dust, with a bunch of creepy-crawlies living in it due to disuse and abundant organic material during an unoccupied period. Not only that, but a section of the ducting had gotten open and was depositing moist air right into the wall cavity, which eventually invited termites into that wall:

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Do the world a favor and don't hide your dryer ductwork inside a framed wall and vent it through the roof!

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I agree but I have no choice due to how the house is constructed. –  Matt Apr 16 at 22:29
    
Even if you have to vent it through the roof because the laundry room doesn't touch an exterior wall, you can still leave the exhaust duct out in the open. That way, it'll never become "out of sight, out of mind." It'll be uglier, but it may prevent a fire. –  iLikeDirt Apr 16 at 23:51

I definitely agree with iLikeDirt, but if you have no choice you can use oval duct such as this: http://www.deflecto.com/products/pc/Skinny-Duct-Aluminum-Dryer-Vent-br-4-Oval-Duct-Adjustable-27-48-4p445.htm

If anything, as a safety precaution you should foil tape ALL joints and even elbows. I do this as standard even for exposed duct work. DO NOT use typical duct tape as "duct tape" is terrible for duct work since the glue does dry out over time and will eventually fail. An example of foil tape: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-Tape-322-1-57-64-in-x-50-yds-Aluminum-Foil-Tape-3220020500/100030120

Interesting read: http://www.lbl.gov/Science-Articles/Archive/duct-tape-HVAC.html

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One thing you could look into would be flat oval ducting:

enter image description here

You can get it as small as 3" in the smaller dimension, but it will likely be a lot harder to find and a lot more expensive. Also, it will compound the issue @iLikeDirt pointed out in keeping it clean, especially if you have transitions to round pipe anywhere. I would also limit yourself to one transition for that reason - a round-oval-round would collect a ton of lint.

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Another alternative is to build out one side of the wall that is away from the brace side. For example you could attach 2x2s to the edge of each stud to open up the wall cavity to another 1.5". This actually removes only a small amount of finished space in the room. If done all the way across one wall surface you would probably hardly realize that that one wall was "thicker" once all finished off.

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