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I got a drill tool when I press the handle and face the drill bit up, it does not functioning at all but if I face it down, it works.

What is the possible problem?

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The tool is broken? –  Michael Karas Jan 25 at 12:01
    
Maybe, is it able to repair? –  user19477 Jan 25 at 14:29
    
Hold old is the drill and has it been worked really hard? –  Jack Jan 25 at 19:44
    
If you face the drill up, but pull forward on the chuck, does the drill run? –  Freiheit Jan 25 at 20:06
    
@Freiheit, worn brushes with worn thrust washer. Yep, that would do it. –  Fiasco Labs Jan 26 at 1:38
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2 Answers 2

Oddball way for something to fail, is this a corded or battery powered drill motor?

If the drill motor is powered from house current through a cord, I have seen the cord break where it enters the handle because the strain/flex relief boot that is supposed to be there was less than adequate or the rubber had rotted and it broke off the cord allowing the cord to bend sharply and eventually break the conductors. Gravity causes it to flex and it is conceivable that the flexing closes the break when you try to drill in one direction and opens up when you reverse it. The cord will have to be replaced, make sure the replacement cord includes the strain relief.

If the drill motor has a detachable cord, you have a worse problem as one or both of the contacts in the cord has gone bad and you will need to replace both the cord and the contacts in the drill handle socket it plugs into as one or both of them will be burned due to arcing caused by the poor contact and will quickly destroy the new cord as well. Quality manufactured tools will have the handle socket part that contains the contacts available as well as a replacement cord, otherwise when this happens, the drill motor is a throwaway.

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The cord is probably the culprit, but I had a set of brushes do that to me too. –  Jack Jan 25 at 19:44
    
Wow, that must have been a much used tool, kind of like my DeWalt cordless that I'm having to retire here. Brushes weren't meant to use gravity pressure or armature float for contact. –  Fiasco Labs Jan 26 at 1:36
    
It happens when the spring cooks enough from over heating to be brittle and the copper braided lead is barely hanging on. In my case it was circular saws, two to be exact, over the years, not a drill. The brushes were worn short enough to start to loose contact along with the weakened springs. –  Jack Jan 26 at 2:17
    
@Fiasco: it is a corded powered drill motor. I think the cord was lossen or wad. I tried to push and tighten the cord inward and hold the handle. It actually works. Hmm..any possible way to self repair? P/S:I am not an expert on this kind of matter so I do not understand the brushes or spring. Mind to explain more. Thank you! –  user19477 Jan 26 at 7:59
    
You don't need to be concerned about the brushes or spring because based on what you said it has to be a bad cord. You have to figure out how to open the tool. Once you do you'll see what's wrong. Then, if you need help fixing it, take it with you to Lowes or Home Depot and ask the person in the electric department how to fix it. They'll be glad to help. –  getterdun Jan 27 at 5:56
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Yes it is a self repair, the brushes may be of no concern. Depending on the make, most drills split down the middle at the handle, some split all the way down. If it splits only at the handle the fix MAY be easy, it is worth a shot, the drill is toast anyway, it will be a good learning experience. Remove the pone half, most drills but not all have the cord and trigger secured in one half of the handle. Note the wires, where they go, what type of ends are on them, most have eyelets crimped on the ends. I have on many occasions, removed the wire completely cut it off at the point that it goes into the heavy rubber boot at the handle, this is where the break usually occurs. hen you cut it, you may even see a black area inside the wire that looks out of place. That is the break. Cut off that too. Taking note before disassembly how the wires go (make a diagram) and how long each lead is cut each to their respective new, unbroken length. Be VERY careful when cutting the jacket, do not cut so deep it cuts the other insulation of the wires you are trying to restore. Go to you local hardware store that carries small gauge electrical eyelets. Then again, it may be a blade style connector. The illustration below has the eyelets on the left side of the blue and red group, a butt connector in the middle and blade or some call it spade connectors on the right side of the blue and red group.

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Once purchased they can be crimped on the newly bared wire ends with the tool can come along with the eyelets in a kit, or a regular pair of pliers will crimp, in this case mash the connector to the wire. The latter is a little more barbaric, but it will do the job with out another expense. Always tug the wire after crimping to insure the bond is tight.

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