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Why does my white neutral conductor has voltage on it? Is a 220 VAC from a DC to AC Inverter circuit supply. The outlet is like a normal American 110 VAC socket but I requested it to be made as a 220 VAC. I tested the black hot conductor and the red hot conductor and both made a 240 VAC and that was ok, That is what I ordered. I was spec ting that to feed my electrical main 220 VAc Breaker Box with those 2 poles 120 VAC each. The problem came when I tested the white neutral conductor and the black hot conductor that should gave me only 120 VAC but it didn't; instead gave me a lecture of 240 VAC also. Weird. Finally I tested the white neutral conductor to the Red hot wire that should gave me again another 120 VAC but instead gave me crazy 80 VAC. I was scratching my head WTF. When I made the connection anyway to see it blew up most of my electrical light bulbs and some appliances. I was really mad. The DC input voltage was fine above the lowest operational voltage and below the highest operational voltage as per manual, but the AC output was wacky. It is brand new 48 VAC Pure Sine Wave Inverter and I need it to supply my house and there is no warranty. An electrician told me that probably the neutral wire is connected somehow to a hot wire inside the inverter or is not connected at all and could be a factory faulty inner connection and not a misunderstood installation made wrong by me. Please help me. Any comments of useful testing of troubleshoot fixing solutions will be thankfully appreciated. Bless you.

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Correction is a 48 VDC input 1500watts Pure Sine Wave Inverter to 220VAC out put. – George Santiago Jan 5 '14 at 1:30
    
Hey George, it's best to just edit your question to include this information. – Edwin Jan 5 '14 at 6:22
    
Did you connect the ground pin to the neutral of the Inverter, or to the Ground of the Inverter. Yes it matters. – Brad Gilbert Jan 6 '14 at 1:06
    
Why would you connect it to your home electrical system when you already measured unexpected voltages from it? Sounds like you need to bring in an electrician to do an on-site evaluation and you should stop experimenting with your home's electrical system. If you want to put some load across it for testing, a light bulb of small appliance like a toaster would be much better than blindly hooking it up to your home and hoping that everything works out. – Johnny Jan 6 '14 at 5:46
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@GeorgeSantiago - what is the exact model name and manufacturer? Are you sure it's a split-phase inverter that can provide separate 110V circuits to Neutral and not just a straight 220VAC inverter? – Johnny Jan 6 '14 at 5:50

It sounds like this is a custom-made piece of electronics, so I would contact the manufacturer to find out how you're supposed to use it. It may be defective or maybe there is a misunderstanding of how it is supposed to function.

As a side note, I think it's dangerous to have a US-style 110V outlet wired with 220V... that's just asking for an injury or fire when someone plugs something into it. There are standard receptacle shapes for 220V (such as those used by generators, clothes driers, etc.). Also, the outlet itself and anything you plug into it is probably not rated for the higher voltage, even if you know what you're doing.

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I know this is an oldie, but this sounds like a classic "lost neutral" situation. What you have when the neutral wire comes loose in a service panel or on an MWBC. Or in this case, perhaps a neutral that never existed in the first place.

I have a feeling your inverter isn't designed to supply 240-120 split phase with a neutral... you just took 2 wires with 240v across them and tied them to the two "hot" rails of the service panel. That would create a lost neutral situation.

Connecting the neutral to the inverter's safety ground would do nothing. Neutral is not ground, and doing that doesn't make the inverter into a split-phase inverter. In fact it could be dangerous - if the ground is hooked to anything, it'll be to what the inverter thinks of as neutral: one leg of the 240v. (That's the European style.)

There are several ways to solve that, such as buying an inverter that actually supplies neutral also, or several arrangements using transformers to force balance. The most straightforward is a transformer that takes 240-or-480 on its primary and gives 240-120 split phase on its secondary. I see used 5 KVA units around all the time.

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