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I can't really get my body close enough to the point where the hole needs to be to drop down the wall since the slope of the roof meets the ceiling in the attic and leaves only about a foot-and-a-half clearance.

I figured I can use a flexi-bit and run it up the wall then use a long object to hook the cable onto it from the top, but I'm wondering if there are any tricks to this that I'm unaware of? I have a fiberglass glowrod and fish tape at my disposal.

I am running PL-259 coaxial for an antenna in my attic.

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More than likely, this wall will be filled with insulation that will make fishing a cable very difficult. Do you have any interior walls you can use instead? If not, you may need to open the drywall up, fish the wire from below, and patch the vapor barrier when done. –  BMitch Dec 2 '13 at 20:41
    
It is an interior wall, it's just very close to the outer wall. –  Daи Dec 2 '13 at 22:36
    
How about a picture? –  Bryce Dec 20 '13 at 16:45
    
Meh, the answers here are good. I just forgot to come back and mark one as accepted (I usually wait to see what others might say first). –  Daи Dec 20 '13 at 16:46
    
I figured a good answer would get more than two upvotes, but I guess low participation/voting is par for the course here. –  Daи Dec 20 '13 at 16:48

2 Answers 2

up vote 3 down vote accepted

Honestly, a foot and a half is pretty decent working space, as miserable wiring goes. Nice dry attic .vs. grotty wet crawlspace, too. Lay out some boards if I need a floor that's not there, crawl over there and be done with it - would be my approach in that case.

The general idea of drilling a hole and running a flexible rod through it works, so long as the hole will clear both the cable/rod, and the means used (generally electrical tape) to connect the cable to the rod (making the rod/cable fatter than they are "plain"). You want a good long section of tape run the long way, not a little ring at the end. If there is a connector on the cable, it's several times more difficult and you need a bigger hole. Either use two people or very short pulls (and trips to the other end to check) to be sure that the cable is not getting kinked as you pull it when you can't see the other end of the pull. If you get hanging/hinged splinters at the end of the hole, they can impede pulling in the direction opposite the direction you drilled, so use a sharp drill bit and not too much pressure. The point where the junction of rod to cable is entering the hole is the tricky part, and finesse will win over brute force 11 times out of 12.

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Occaisonally I will drill (horizontally) into the top plate (the horizontal 2x4 on top of the wall studs). After the drill bit goes into the wood a bit, tip the drill approx. 45 degrees up while still drilling. Then finish drilling the hole. This will allow you to drill a hole that angles into the stud cavity. I adjust my technique so that "it looks right". This works better with a twist bit, but I have done it with spade bits as well.

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