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I have some cracks in my sport court - see images. What can I use to repair them? I imagine that I would use some kind of filler that would then set hard. This is in the Phoenix area which means that it gets extreme heat but the temperature rarely drops below freezing.

Sport Court Crack Crack

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You need a flexible material that will move when the asphalt moves, if the crack is filled with a hard material, when the paving gets hot, it will expand again, and move the sections again that have already moved to create the cracks, an when it shrinks, the cracks will reappear. On second thought, what is the chance this is a clay court? The visible portion of the inside of the crack looks reddish not gray like concrete nor black or dark gray like pavement... – Jack Dec 3 '13 at 1:59

You could patch up these cracks with an epoxy filler or a cement product type filler. In either case the filler will dry hard and be able to take the temperature extremes of your location. Repair such as this is going to leave tracks where the filled cracks were and will still be highly visible due to the surface texture that was originally applied to the slab surface. To get the best visual appearance you may want to subsequently consider prepping the surface and getting a new textured surface applied. Before doing that however please do read on to the next paragraphs.

These cracks readily show that the soil under the slab is changing position and settling. It also gives the appearance, due to the separation that has occurred, that the slab was built without any or a very limited amount of wire mesh and rebar installed. Both wire and re-bar cannot prevent cracks but will prevent large separations and variation of surface height across the cracks in most cases except the most extreme soil movement, settling, or water erosion under the slab.

You will want to carefully evaluate conditions that led to the cracks in your slab. If there is continued soil movement any repairs that you do will be only temporary and could lead to disappointment and loss due to the cost of the repairs. In the worst cases it may very well be better in the long run to remove the sports equipment, break up the slab and remove it and the replace with a new slab that is installed in a way to prevent future cracks. This would of course include plenty of wire mesh and rebar. If the soil is unstable it may even be necessary to engineer a footing and/or deep peers that can stabilize your new slab.

If the cracks have been stable for a long time and you've seen no changes since the original incident then repairs with filler and a re-application of the textured surface may be a good longer term solution.

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If it is pavement or concrete, Sika makes a product that will seal up the cracks.Click here for website The movement is severe though and it should be replaced with concrete and reinforcing wire. This is only a fix until it cracks elsewhere.

It is a self leveling product that will fill the crack, seeping into the smaller areas filling those too. So it does not make a thorough mess, after the tip is cut small enough to fit into the crack all the way to the bottom, and squeeze the trigger to fill the crack from the bottom up. You can add a small tube to extend the tip a few inches, but make sure you have it secured very well, for if it falls off you will have a real mess on your hands! The only down side to using this material is small voids under the surface, it will flow into them and waste material.

The way to combat this is to take DRY, free running fine sand and fill the crack half way up, Dry sand will fall to the bottom and not hang on the sides. Use a paint brush to level out the sand in the crack. This complicates the application of caulk but with care, you can still pull it off, just govern how far down the tip goes in so it does not plow the sand as you move the tip of the tube along the bottom of the now half filled crack. Do not try to fill it all at once, fill it to the top as you move it along, but it will always settle in more. Give it time to settle after the initial fill then top off afterwards, preferable before it sets.

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