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What kind of clamp would be appropriate for securing a 1/2" copper pipe that's run through a wall to the outside to a hose bib?

I'll accept a general answer. In my particular case it's a stucco wall out there. I want something strong so it does not stress the caulking that protects the wall. Freezing is not an issue in this area.

half inch copper pipe through exterior siding and stucco clamp

Here's the outside view: enter image description here

Click for full size image

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4 Answers

Use a stainless steel hose clamp (sometimes called a worm clamp becasue of the screw it uses) and a couple of L-brackets - clamp the L-brackets to the pipe using the hose clamp, screw them into the wall with wood screws.

Hose Clamp L-bracket

The fussiest, hardest to find and most expensive aproach would be to find copper or copper-plated L-brackets ("pipe strap" would be easier to find but less rigid.) copper pipe strap

The practical, less expensive and just as functional approach is to use steel L-brackets and place some durable plastic or rubber material between them and the copper pipe to prevent corrosion. Clamping steel directly to copper will result in galvanic corrosion and an eventual leak.

You can also use stand-off clamps intended for wall mounting on the vertical portion of the pipe. wall-mount clamp

The "long-gone plumber" certainly does not appear to have worked to normal plumbing standards...

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+1 for the stand-off clamp. –  Tester101 Nov 19 '13 at 15:24
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The best is to use a hose bib that has a flange or collar that can be secured into the wall. This way stresses on the bib due to pulling and tugging on an attached hose do not directly transmit into the copper pipe. Several examples are shown below.

Successful mounting of this type of faucet may require pre-mounting the bib to the pipe that goes through the wall and then attaching the pipe to the water supply on the other side of the wall. If anchored in a secure way there should be no real need to separately clamp the pipe going through the wall.

enter image description here

enter image description here

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While it's a good answer, this particular pipe splits in two on the outside: a sprinkler and a hose bib. Also the plumber is long gone. And this solution is rather non-repairable: hose bibs do give out after a few decades (the house is already 75 years old, and headed for another 75). This solution also presents difficulties for caulking (which more or less must be done from the inside). –  Bryce Nov 18 '13 at 6:27
    
@Bryce - So then it seems that your question is missing some important information. A description (or even better a picture) of what is on the outside would help to provide a clearer idea of what is needed. –  Michael Karas Nov 18 '13 at 15:55
    
@Bryce - As far as being repairable -- as long as you have access to the inside, which you've aptly pictured, this is repairable if you are using sweated on fittings. If the bibs are threaded to the pipe the repair can be done from the outside. –  Michael Karas Nov 18 '13 at 15:58
    
You've provided an excellent general answer (which is the whole point of stack exchange, right?). In this case a temporary hole was cut in the interior wall to install the pipe, which is why your excellent general answer is less applicable here. –  Bryce Nov 18 '13 at 20:20
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For your particular case, you want firstly to secure the pipe from sliding in and out of the wall opening, and secondly to secure it side to side. If you can cut a block of wood so that it tucks into the top bend and screw that to interior wood, you can then use two clamps -- one on the interior side, one on the right, to hold the copper. Here's an example:

plastic half clamp

I can't judge exactly from the picture, but a chunk of 2x4 and a couple of these clamps would likely get you covered. Some expanding foam can also help hold the pipe in place within the gap. And finally, make sure to caulk around the outside to keep water out.

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I would use a copper riser clamp (pictured below) right on the inside wall. You can then secure this to the wood with two 2" screws and washers placed on either side of the pipe, and between the halves of the riser clamp. This will prevent movement on the x, y, and z axes, although torsional rotation resistance is dependent on the clamping force asserted by the clamp (which can be more than sufficient with this type of clamp).

enter image description here

riser clamp

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You can also use a non-copper riser clamp, just be sure to wrap the portion of the copper pipe that will come in contact with a rubber type tape such as electrical tape. –  pdd Nov 19 '13 at 16:38
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