I spent the day taking apart the platform for a yurt. It was a real pain, and I want to make it easier to take apart next time.
Old deck construction details:
Decking was 1 1/8" tongue-and-groove plywood, fastened with 3" Robertson (square-drive) screws. The deck was painted after installation, so some paint was in the screw heads. A regular cordless drill wasn't strong enough to turn these screws, but an combination drill / impact-driver was able to do it. However, maybe 1 in 10 screws had their drive heads stripped instead. Too much friction / too much torque. We used a Sawzall to cut those screws out. Went through 4 Sawzall blades.
Framing was 4" x 6" joists on 4" x 4" posts on concrete piers. Most lumber was pressure-treated, but about 1/3 of the joists were not. Beam-to-post caps were nailed in to the joists and posts, 3 nails on each side. We spent a lot of time hammering a Cat's Paw under the nail heads, and then prying them out.
Insulation was 4' x 8' sheets of 2"-thick foil-faced foam board, between the joists, secured with 1/2" x 1" lath strips, which were fastened with 2" screws. To be able to get the Sawzall in to place, we crawled around in the dirt under the yurt to remove the foam. These screws were also hard to remove, and sometimes we had to break the lath instead.
We're going to put the yurt up at a new location. I'm guessing it'll be there about 5 years, and then it'll be time to move it again. So I want to think about how to build it in a way to make it easier to disassemble when the time comes.
Fasten the floor with 2"-long scews, for easier turning.
Prime & paint the floor panels before installation. Maybe 1 more coat after installation.
Pilot the floor screw holes.
Duplex (double-headed) nails for the beam-to-post caps. Maybe screws instead?
Tiny finish nails for the lath that holds up the inuslation. Easy to rip out. 2" screws was overkill.