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I have an indoor hollow bedroom door. The door seems to offer very little sound insulation, and I would like to add a bit more. I'm not expecting to get perfect silence or anything, but I would like to deaden down the sound some, so that way way I can listen to something in my bedroom at a reasonable level without my kids hearing it to the point that they can't sleep. I have in my mind that there might be something like an AB Foam type product that I could pour in to my door and make it a bit more sound resistant. Is there any such product? Any other suggestions to improving sound resistance in a room?

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I would suggest you go visit @OscillatingCretin and his murder room posts. –  Chris Cudmore Sep 24 '13 at 19:02
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4 Answers

up vote 3 down vote accepted

Reducing sound output from a typical bedroom can be extraordinarily difficult. The core problem is that sound travels through the point of least resistance -- you can get a good sound block in one area, but find it makes no difference since the sound just escapes from somewhere else.

If you have a hollow core door, then that is one of your biggest sound holes as a typical hollow core door has an STC rating of only 20 or so. That's not going to do a lot for any noise above a whisper. But wait, even that is not a true representation of the actual sound transmission. The problem is that that rating assumes that we are only talking about the door and not not the air gaps around it. If you have a hollow core door, then I'm going to assume that it's not properly gasketed. If so, then the actual STC rating is substantially less.

Can you make that door more sound absorbent? No, not really. At least not in any efficient (money and time) manner. Your best bet would be to upgrade to a solid core door. If you have a standard door, then there is a good chance that the hinges will even line up and it'll be a straight swap for maybe $100.

Doing so will immediately jump your sound blocking to an STC rating of 25 or so. Eh? That doesn't sound much better than a hollow core door! Well, that rating is taking the air gaps into account, so it's actually substantially better.

But STC 25 is still not going to be good enough to make a big enough difference in your sound transmission. To do that, you're going to need to control the air gaps. If you add some acoustic door gaskets, then you'll be looking at an STC rating of 35 or so. That's actually quite good -- roughly on par with the STC rating of your wall. People will still be able to hear what happens in the room, but it'll be notably muted.

An alternate to buying an interior solid core door and adding acoustic door gaskets is to buy an exterior door, which is already going to be solid core and will have its own seal. That could be expensive, though, and the hinges will almost surely not line up.

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Best solution is to replace the doors. Don't know where you are from, but in UK normal 35mm plain doors cost about £20 each, when fire proof 30 min doors cost around £30-£40. And these fireproof doors are not only fire resistant, they are also much better in sound insulation - they are thicker and solid. Make sure you get them same size as the existing doors and replace them.

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The trivial answer is a good pair of headphones. Even a crappy pair of headphones will suffice though.

But if you really want to do so, then I suppose you could

  1. Remove the door from the hinges.
  2. Drill holes in the top, bottom, and sides of the door.
  3. Inject a foam like Great Stuff into the door, letting it expand to fill the cavities. Be very careful here, as these foams expand greatly, and too much could damage the door.

Alternatively, buy and install a solid core door.

In any event, I expect you would find that once the door was improved that sound transmission still occurs through the walls. I think in the end, headphones are still a better idea.

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I often use headphones, but it's slightly more difficult if both my wife and I want to watch something. Hmmm. –  PearsonArtPhoto Sep 22 '13 at 13:20
    
@PearsonArtPhoto - Then you need two pairs of headphones. They make simple splitter cable assemblies that will fan a headphone jack out to two sets. Search Google for "dual headphone jack". Problem solved so simply. –  Michael Karas Sep 22 '13 at 14:33
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With most doors I don't think drilling it will work. The inside of most of these doors is a honeycomb of cardboard baffles, glued to the panels: there are several dozen isolated spaces, not one solid space inside. –  gregmac Sep 22 '13 at 18:46
    
@gregmac: Will definitely have to check that one out before attempting. I guess the easiest way would be to take off the doorknob and probe inside? –  PearsonArtPhoto Sep 22 '13 at 22:50
    
There's a "lock block" of solid wood around the handles. Here's a cut-away diagram of a hollow core door, and here's a picture of a door after cutting a chunk of the bottom off –  gregmac Sep 22 '13 at 22:59
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I used seals around the inside of the door frame were the door closes on the frame. And at the bottom of the door I installed a rubber door sweep to cut down on the air gaps. And it cut back on about 40 per cent. It cost me around $15.00. To do this. And it works. And for the seal around the inside frame it comes in white or black. It looks good on a white door and white frame it hardly shows it is there .

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