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When I push my inside of garage button for the door to close, the door attempts to go down, motor light flashes and door goes back up again. I had to keep holding the wall button for the door to actually go down and close.

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Check the owners manual, the pattern with which the lights flash often indicates the problem. – Tester101 Aug 17 '13 at 4:07

The garage door will automatically reverse if it encounters too much resistance or if the sensor beam is interrupted.

To check for resistance, start with the door closed and pull the red handle. Then open and close the door. The movement should be fluid with no tough spots. If you encounter difficult spots, you likely have a bent track or a broken wheel. Call a professional.

If the door opens with the opener fine, but reverses almost immediately when you try to close it, then you likely have a problem with your sensor alignment. One sensor should have a light on all the time. This is the transmitter. The other, your receiver, should light up when it has an unobstructed view of the invisible light beam the transmitter sends. It's easy to bump a sensor and move it out of alignment. Just bend it back in to position. Use the light on the receiver to help you so that you don't have to try and close the door to check your adjustments.

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Here is a video explaining the process: youtube.com/watch?v=QmB-Lg-T9fk I was able to fix my door with the same problem. – yya Mar 27 '15 at 21:30

I'd like to add to the thread my experience/observation: same situation - won't close unless you hold the inside button, 10 flashes as the error.

Both of my sensors "appeared" to be working. That is, the amber emitter would cause the green receiver to light when I had them aligned, and the green receiver would go out if I blocked the beam, so as I said, it "appeared" to be working.

The cause was corrosion on the receiver wires. Both wires were cut by a critter a few years ago. I spliced them back but moisture and weather resulted in just enough resistance on the line to provide inconsistent feedback and trigger the safety override. I cut out the bad copper and soldered a new splice which I sealed with liquid tape and all is well again.

In summary, If both sensors are lit and you get response from blocking the beam, check the green receiver wiring (the emitter would not have the same issue). With a multimeter you could look for voltage fluctuation or resistance, or just visually inspect for breaks in the line insulation and black or green copper wiring. It's much more likely the wire than the sensor so why waste the money?

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Same thing, lights were on on sensors and they appeared to be working. – Rich Wagenknecht Jan 19 at 6:47
    
+1 for the sensors appeared to be working (cutting out when standing in the way), but they still had an issue. Mine would only close if I held it at the wall - I saw lots of advice elsewhere to clean the sensors with alcohol, and I was positive it wouldn't help, but it does seem to have fixed the problem. So don't always believe the lights! – Danny Mar 17 at 0:25

I had this issue last week. The lights on the sensor were fine. The issue was finally traced to loose connections at the sensors. Disconnected the sensors, re-stripped the wires and reconnected them. Door closes fine now.

I think the sensors were working fine until the garage door starts moving, when the electrical supply to the sensors were getting interrupted due to faulty wiring.

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This helped me a lot. My sensor was loose and moved off from its position in the casing. I just placed it right and tightened the screw and viola!, everything started working. Thanks a lot. You saved me a lot of money.. – user44177 Oct 2 '15 at 22:16
    
You should up-vote me, so I can get some badly needed reputation :) – Do Will Nov 18 '15 at 19:09

Besides @longneck's excellent points, if the garage door or opener is a new installation and has not worked before, it could be that the opener's internal "tension sensor" is not correctly set.

If the door can be reasonably easily opened and closed by hand, but the opener balks at closing the door, the tension setting probably needs to be increased. See the installation manual for details how to adjust it. Usually it is a nut inside the unit, or sometimes a thumbwheel.

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3 most common problems with garage doors that won’t close are:

The sensor is either blocked by an object The sensor caught some dirt. The sensor is not aligned

What to do when your garage door won't close

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When nothing here works...determine what is spoofing the auto reverse. I have an insulated door. Part of the sheeting over the insulation are peeling away due to excess heat (and kids pickng at it). The flap of sheeting on the lower most panel was triggering he reverse when the door got to within an inch or two from closing. Trimmed the flap of sheeting back and presto...worked every time.

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Sensor lights were out (there is a green and red LED light on each sensor side). I moved an extension ladder that must have "jiggled" the wires at the ceiling corner that powers the sensors. I went up and " re-jiggled" the wires at ceiling and LED lights came on. Garage door now shuts normally. Try this if all else fails as in my case.

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Hello, and welcome to Stack Exchange. Your answer is somewhat confusing; are you relating a similar situation that happened to you? Either way, you should edit your answer to make it clearer. – Daniel Griscom Dec 2 '15 at 0:39

Both of my sensors were working (green receiver goes out only if beam blocked). I noticed one light bulb blinked when closing door. I decided to remove the bulb and give it a try. Well, the door closes fine now. I don't need the second light so I don't bother to find out if it was the bulb or the connection on the opener that caused the problem on closing.

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