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I have tried jb weld products, expoxy and water expoxy and water tape. I do not want to replace the pipe just fix it for now?

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Are you are talking about a supply line or a drain line? – bib Jul 30 '13 at 13:52
main cold water supply line – user14261 Jul 30 '13 at 14:06
it's ridiculously easy to repair PVC by just cutting out the bad section. why have you not done that yet? – longneck Jul 30 '13 at 14:50
Anything glued on the outside is resisting pressure after it has exited the containment. Think Blister. The pressure under the blister is as high as the internal pressure of the pipe till it strips the patch off and starts leaking again... Temporary patches like you've tried are temporary and from personal experience may only gain you 24-48 hours which if it's your copper main hot water lines, gives you just enough time to find all the fittings and pipe so you can spend your weekend finding all 20 other incipient pinhole leaks as you R&R the whole system. – Fiasco Labs Jul 30 '13 at 15:02
Home Depot sells a pipe repair kit. You put a blob of epoxy putty on the pinhole, forming a hard scab that resists blistering. Then you wrap fiberglass resin tape around the pipe, which acts as a bandage to hold the epoxy putty in place. – mbeckish Mar 17 '15 at 19:47

Your best bet to fix the leak is to turn off the water, drain the line, and then cut out the bad section and replace with some new glued in fittings and pipe pieces.

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This is the best answer so far. PVC is unreliable once punctured. Anything squeezed, glued or otherwise attached to the outside might as well be bubble gum on a dam. – BrownRedHawk Mar 17 '15 at 20:13

Pipe Repair Clamp

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There are quite a few different styles; however, almost all of them are designed for metal pipes. Personally, with PVC I still suggest replace a section of the pipe, but if you can't this will get by in a pinch.

Make sure to prepare the surface. Turn the water supply off, sand the area (get rid of your epoxies and rough up the surface). For a good seal, I'd add some 100% silicone "caulking". then put the clamp on. The clamps come with a rubber gasket and if you are using a universal size one then be extra careful not to crack the pipe, it takes a bit but is surprisingly easy when using tools. Allow a couple of hours for the silicone to dry (most dry times listed are expecting surface air to help dry/cure it so if you can manage it leave it overnight)

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Works only if the leak is in a straight part of the line (pinhole unlikely in PVC, more likely a split) and not a joint. If the joint is leaking due to bad solvent weld, replacement is the only way that the leak will be repaired. And silicone applied between the rubber and piping will tunnel unless allowed to fully cure. – Fiasco Labs Jul 30 '13 at 18:38

Bondo fiberglass resin, while a little messy, worked to patch a leaking PVC sump pump pipe joint. The pipe location was in a tight spot making cutting it out a much bigger pain. Two other products that are less messy (than fiberglass) and might do the job -- Fiber Fix and Perma-Wrap.

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Watts quick connect. Simply cut out section where the pinhole is and stab the pipe into the quick connect. Easy as 123. I've even done this with copper and it works great. No more soldering or worrying if the water is out of the pipe. You will not regret it!

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I had a puncture happen in an area that cutting the pipe and adding a coupling was going to be a super mission. What I ended up doing was cutting a coupling in half (so you get 2 u shaped pieces), gluing it on, and using a hose clamp to tighten it. This was for a sprinkler pipe so not nearly as much constant pressure as a house pipe but it's been holding for weeks now.

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