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I am installing a GFCI outlet and I am having some issues. I have identified the hot and neutral wires. They test positive with the voltmeter when I turn on the switch. I connect the receptacle to the wires, turn on the switch and power is not getting to the outlets. I test the screws which hold the wires in place on the receptacle and it gets power, but the outlets aren't getting any juice. I tried pressing the reset button and test button a bunch, nothing. The LED on the receptacle doesn't light up either.

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A GFCI has both a Load and Line side -can you verify that you connected to the LINE side? –  Steven Jun 21 '13 at 14:51
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Newer GFCI's require you to hold the button down for a second and to push firmly. Have you tried that? If you can't get it to activate without anything connected to the load, and nothing plugged in, then the receptacle may be defective. –  BMitch Jun 21 '13 at 14:54
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What does "They test positive with the voltmeter when I turn on the switch." mean? The ungrounded (hot) conductor should measure ~120V to ground, while the grounded (neutral) conductor should measure ~0V to ground. Is this what you're seeing? Are you connecting the wires to the proper terminals? The ungrounded (hot) conductor should attach to the brass colored terminal, while the grounded (neutral) conductor should attach to the silver colored terminal. Are you connecting the wires to the Line terminals? Did you press the reset button in far enough? –  Tester101 Jun 21 '13 at 15:01
    
The wires are connected to the LINE terminals, the LOAD terminals are still taped up. Testing positive means that my voltmeter's 110v LED lights up. There is no ground wire that is why I got the CFGI. The green screw for the ground wire is just tightened. I am confident that I am plugging the right wires into the right sides. Even if I wasn't, I already tried reversing. –  user13588 Jun 21 '13 at 15:05
    
Oh, this is the second receptacle I have purchased :\ –  user13588 Jun 21 '13 at 15:09
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2 Answers 2

If I read your original question correct you said that "the outlets are not getting any juice" but you confuse me with your later statement about the LOAD side still having the tape on, this would suggest that there is no connection to other receptacles on the load side. Can you clarify that please?

If I may suggest that you make sure your wires are stripped the proper length and fixed to the line side of the GFCI receptacle using the side screws and not the push-in holes, I have experienced poor results with the latter method making a good contact just plugging them in. also it is a good idea to make sure the breaker for the circuit is off when making the connections.

If the problem persists you may want to get an professional on the scene, at $25 a pop for the outlets you could save yourself a head ache and get it done in one go.

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New GFCIs are a pain. Pushing the reset button does NOT reset them, unless there is a specific load plugged in. For example, the won't reset if an electronic device such as a battery charger is plugged in. You need to plug in a incandescent light bulb, for example, to be able to have the reset button work. So the recommended monthly process of pushing the TEST then RESET buttons won't work anymore.

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This is completely FALSE. I install hundreds of GFCI receptacles a year and have NEVER had this problem. Do you have any documentation to support this claim? –  Speedy Petey May 30 at 10:14
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This is only a problem if there is a ground fault in the battery charger. In that case, the GFCI would not; and should not, reset. –  Tester101 May 30 at 11:56
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