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We have a 1920's house with some 1/2" X 6" planks. Unfortunately the floor is in quite rough shape with finger wide gaps in some spots, I started to attempt to sand and flatten it but I think it will be too much work. That said, would the proper course of action be to put down some 1/2" subflooring (particle board or plywood tongue and groove) first. Screw it down then lay the laminate over top? If not what would be the correct thing to

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3 Answers 3

As long as your floor is "flat" then you really need to follow the install advice for the type of laminate you are installing. Some laminates require nothing, some a pad.

If your floor has a lot of damage and bumps then you probably want to patch it with a compound like floor leveler. You don't want to have large potmarks (anything greater than an inch) in your floor and leave it thinking the pad and laminate will cover it.

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There are quite large gaps between flooring so I dont think I can use a floor leveling compound. Currently there is not a half inch difference in the floor, however, I have cut and laid the laminate and I am not happy with the movement in the floor. –  ted May 28 '13 at 21:06
    
There are gaps with nothing underneath? Do you have any pictures? –  DMoore May 29 '13 at 3:24
    
Just wood planks over the joist, there is about a finger between some of the more rotten spots. I don't think I can upload images. –  ted May 29 '13 at 20:06
    
I would use use wood filler or floor leveler. –  DMoore May 31 '13 at 5:46
    
I was told by staff that sold the floor leveler that the gaps between planks were too large. –  ted May 31 '13 at 18:47

Using plywood or MDF to flatten the floor and then using laminate might rise the entire floor a bit too much. You might be better off renting a drum sander and sand the entire floor to level it. Then use damp proof pvs, underlay and then your laminate on top.

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If your subfloor is only a 1/2 inch thick and partially rotten you need to replace it. Even if it were in perfect condition that's not thick enough for laminate flooring, it will droop and bounce like walking on sponge cake. Cut out your floor boards, true up/replace/sister your floor joists using a site laser or string line and power plane if they need it (and I'd bet you a shiny nickel they do)especially if the joists are under the span load limit, here's a tutorial on span limits: http://www.awc.org/technical/spantables/tutorial.php It looks daunting but its not as bad as it looks. If you're still fuzzy just go to your local building center and they can usually calculate loads and spans for you. Once you've got that figured out, sheet with 3/4 t&g cdx. Run a bead of PL on the joists to fill and small voids and bind it all together. Here's a pretty thorough link from a sheeting manufacturer. http://buildgp.com/wood-products-installation-tips Hope this helps!

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