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This picture shows what my new home has for the wiring necessary for internet access. Some of the wiring here isn't necessary---in fact, most of it isn't, just the telephone wiring. enter image description here

With an idea of how this looks I assumed I would use what's called a "peg board", a white board with lots of holes in it, attached to the wall of this area and then mount the necessary hardware to the board w/ (what? zip-ties, or?) and then rout the wiring that's necessary in a tidy fashion through the peg board.

The hardware to be mounted to this board include only (a) a small (few inches x few inches) telephone "device" which needs input of 500mv/6.5v, and input of telephone (the telephone wire that gives the telephone connection to the outside (this powers my wireless telephone system), (b) a also similarly small telephone box (the one that provides the telephone wire to (a) which needs ethernet access to the router, and 12v/1amp max. (c) a router (self explanatory), and (d) the internet providers piece of hardware which will take in one of these raw telephone wires (pictured), and their own (power brick :), and possibly later (d) a wireless AP. Lastly, a 120v mains switch that can turn on/off all of that above. There's a mains within feet of this hold w/ the wires.

This isn't a complete solution to this question however, e.g., one technical point is missing: how do I mount this pegboard to the wall? The answer to this question finishes the possible project.

EDIT: the pegboard would mount horizontally as: enter image description here Note: the internet provider will be having to come on site to fix the wiring for their modem.

EDIT: additional thoughts

There are three "tv type" cables (one of which has no connector on it), and three "telephone type" connectors none of which have connectors.

Possible answers to this question might include such information to address: (a) that first, the hole could be repaired, and then a utility plate for cable/telephone could be used to tidy things up, and labels could be put on the respective outlets on this plate. Problem here may be that there wouldn't be room for labels (given six outputs) and, can one even find a six output plate like this? (b) two utility plates could be used to overcome some of the problems in (a).

Re mounting of the board: (a) spaces could be used so that the wires could be run underneath the board as needed and the peg holes could be drilled out (increased in size RPN). (b) flush mount the pegboard, and plug mount the utility plates, and run the wires on top of it.

Re attachment of hardware: (a) zip ties.

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2 Answers 2

OK, this is kind of a rambling question with a lot of details, but let me give you some leads on some of them:

Wall Plate

If you want to install a wall plate, you'll want to clean up the opening and then install a "low voltage mounting bracket", which is a square piece of plastic that frames the opening and provides a place to attach the plate:

low-voltage mounting bracket

(Wall plates come in sizes like 1-gang, 2-gang, etc., which indicates how many toggle switches or receptacles it can fit. You might want a 2-gang for that size opening and number of cables).

Then you can get a "keystone plate", which is a wall plate with small square holes in it (available in various widths and with different number of keystone holes). Here's a 1-gang, 2-keystone plate:

1-gang keystone plate

Finally, you get different keystone modules for the different types of cables. They snap into the holes in the plate. This lets you mix and match different connection types on the same plate. I'm not really sure what you mean by "tv type" and "telephone type", but here's a coax keystone module:

coax keystone module

(EDIT: resist the temptation to skip the bracket and screw the plate directly to the wall. The screws will pull out of the drywall in about 2 seconds. I've seen this happen in several houses where people added coax wall plates or something, and didn't bother to do it right.)

Shelf & Mounting

As for wall-mounting options, it depends on how tidy you want to be. You could either mount a small shelf to the wall and place the electronics on that, or use your pegboard and find a way to strap the items to it.

Personally I would mount the shelf or pegboard just below the wiring plate, not on top of it. That would make it easier to mount the wall plate, and easier to make changes in the future.

Whatever you mount to the wall, make sure you attach it to the studs behind, not just screwing into the drywall.

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A 6 port plate would be just right. –  Tester101 May 9 '13 at 12:30
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Yup, or maybe a 2-gang 6-module plate, since the drywall opening is a little large. –  Henry Jackson May 9 '13 at 15:17
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You could install a structured wiring box over top. This has the benefit that all your gear can be contained inside. They come in various sizes, and often has have a ton of (pricey) modular components to choose from, though you can also just use standard switches and other gear.

enter image description here

You'd have to choose one with or add a hole to the back for the wiring to come in, and then make sure to protect it with a grommet (metal edges + wiring = bad) and neaten up the appearance.

One thing to be careful of is wifi - lots of people stick their wireless routers in these metal boxes, then wonder why they have signal strength problems. Put your access point somewhere else or figure out a way to mount the antenna outside the box (there are cables you can buy to do this, so long as your antennas are detachable).

To be clear, this is much more expensive than @HenryJackson's suggestion, but I'm just throwing it out there as another option.

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This looks awesome! –  jhstuckey May 9 '13 at 22:57
    
Yeah this is definitely a nice professional solution. I want to reiterate that a metal box is a horrible place for a wifi router, though. Personally I wouldn't even set it on top of the box, for fear of getting signal reflections from the metal that would mess up the signal. But maybe that's just paranoid on my part. –  Henry Jackson May 10 '13 at 1:24
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