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I have a (cheap) garage door that has the metal frames/hinges connected to the actual metal door by some kind of glue. The glue on one part of the frame has broken off. What is a glue that is strong enough to hold 2 pieces of metal together? This is about a 1.5 foot length of metal that is about 1/4 inch wide. The garage door opener connects to this piece so there is quite a lot of push/pull and vibration, so it needs to be very well bonded.

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How do you know it is glue? Some kinds of welds look like glue if you manage to break them apart. –  Joseph Oct 18 '10 at 3:30
    
I agree with @Joseph's comment. It is probably a weld and not glue. Post a picture if you can. –  Jeff Widmer Oct 18 '10 at 10:02
    
I'm pretty sure it is glue. The frame is completely smooth, even after it broke off from the other piece. You can also see where some of the glue was pushed out when the two pieces of metal were pushed together. I can even scrape the glue from the door piece. I'm not sure if it could be welded, both pieces are aluminum, if that matters, and it is pretty thin. I think if it were welded, it might show through the other side of the garage door. –  NotDan Oct 18 '10 at 13:55
    
Could be a shoddy job to begin with, that's why it broke. –  Tester101 Oct 18 '10 at 15:55
    
Yeah, it was a cheap garage door the previous homeowners installed. But instead of spending $500 on a new one (or double that to make both doors match), I'd like to try to fix it for <$20 if possible. –  NotDan Oct 18 '10 at 16:02
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4 Answers 4

up vote 8 down vote accepted

This-to-That recommends JB-weld or LePage's Metal Epoxy. I've never used either, personally.

The important thing for this is going to be surface prep and clamping, I would assume.

You might be able to use a CA glue (ie, "super glue"), but you'll need additional reinforcement to keep the bond from shearing (eg, glue then bolt it in place, but 1/4" is kinda narrow to bolt through; also, I have no idea what sort of clearance issues there might be if there are bolts sticking out)

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+1 - I've used JB-Weld before with decent results. That being said, it's certainly not a replacement for traditional welding. If you need to use it, Joe is absolutely right -- the compound needs time to set so surface prep and clamping is essential. –  Mike B Oct 18 '10 at 6:46
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Note that cyanoacrylates, i.e., superglue, tend to be brittle in my experience. Vibration from a garage door opener, plus starts and stops, will likely break that bond very easily. –  user558 Oct 18 '10 at 10:41
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I've used JB-Weld as well, and for more protected, indoor projects, I have had good results. I have found the issue with JB Weld to be that when exposed to heat/cold changes (like you would see in a garage depending on geographical location) it tends to start breaking down. –  MarkD Oct 18 '10 at 12:51
    
Before I saw this, I tried to glue it with Liquid Nails.. and it seems to be holding. If that breaks, I'm sure the JB Weld will hold it (I would have used it instead if I had thought of it first). –  NotDan Oct 19 '10 at 16:30
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Metal epoxy is ok.. The Real Araldite (takes about a week to harden) is so good that they use it on aircraft. You've gotta make sure that the surfaces are clean and dry. I mean REALLY clean, "Eat your dinner off it" type clean. And warm, to encourage hardening. –  Tom O'Connor Dec 26 '10 at 10:12
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Instead of glue, do you know anyone with a welder that could weld the pieces together? I don't know of any glue that will dry that strong. I've tried several metal to metal epoxies and they don't hold up under much strain. If the garage door opener mechanism connects to the piece it's going to be put under a pretty hefty strain and I'd be wary of any type of glue. If that joint pops off it could be potentially bad. My advice would be to find a friend or local handyman with a welder.

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I would drill and pop rivet them followed by Araldite glue in between joints.

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Please don't shout. –  ChrisF Mar 25 '12 at 21:24
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Just had the same thing happen, middle support bracket (my brackets are 2 1/2" wide C channel) on the top panel has come "unglued" (yes, glue) on a 'middle of the road' 9' door. Tig welding this is out of the question as the weld would definitely show up on the front of the door and the support bracket is galvanized steel whereas the door is aluminum. Also to the keep the door light the aluminum is probably 24g and I would be concerned with the door distorting with the heat from the Tig. There is more stress on the top panel than the others but the majority of the weight of the door should be carried by the 48" (at least) wood bracket that mounts under the top inside lip of the door. The manufacturer does not supply the bracket, so you have to make it from a 2x4 and modify to fit the external panel design. As for the glue, I agree with the aircraft quality epoxy and prep the area well. Garage door company's sell it as just for this eventuality. You'd think they would do it right the first time but.....

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