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I lost most of a ceiling panel due to water saturation and collapse. It was removed along with insulation residue and a temporary fiber board panel tacked in in its place. Now I would like to install the permanent gypsum board, full 4 by 8 but the problem is how to restore loose fill insulation layer (only) on top of the new rock but the joist would interfere and there's no practical way to blow or throw it going into the attic. I have a drywall jack/lift. I am looking for good idea for lifting insulation along with the panel and thought maybe someone else has encountered this kind of rehab challenge.

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Is there a reason you want to use loose fill rather than fiberglass batts or foam panel insulation? – bib Oct 22 '12 at 11:19
1. The undamaged ceiling is covered with loose fill. – Lex Oct 24 '12 at 9:15

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Hoisting the insulation with the drywall panel is a bad idea. I would instead install fiberglass bat insulation between the joists. You could use the kind that is faced with paper and staple it to the joists for added support. If just plain batts are used then you may need to add some type of staple on stripping to help hold the batts in place. Install all of this except for one small area where you can go up and put in more of the loose insulation above the fiberglass if that is desired or needed. Finally close off the small area by pushing up an oversized bat that covers the opening from above and then install the final piece. If using the paper backed staple that in place. If the ceiling previously had some type of vapor barrier you need to install similar material on the bottom of the ceiling joists.

Now you would be ready to install the new ceiling drywall.

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Unfaced batts are usually held in place overhead with stiff wires, bowed between the joists, spaced every foot or two. – bib Oct 22 '12 at 22:53
@bib, Are you saying that those wires are indispensible for pressing a batt (down into the joist cavity against rock and joists to ensure against "leak"? MichaelKaras, Bib: As I understand your answer, with faced batts I would tack the facing to the bottom (floorward) edges of the joists. Or if faceless, improvise something else (live tape/paper) to tack in place as batts are pushed up between joists? Now, with foam boards, where tight fit is critical, is there a suitable caulk/sealant that could hold them in place? Finally, it's 4in joists. How that impacts batt or board thickness? – Lex Oct 24 '12 at 9:41
@Lex When installing batts overheard, you want them to be flush with the bottom of the joist and not be compressed. Leak is really not an issue. The wires are bowed between the joists to hold them up since you dont have the facing to tack to the bottom of the joists. Batts are sized for different joists, for yours 3 1/2 inch thick. Foam boards are cut or precut to fit tightly on their own, but can be sealed in with foil tape. – bib Oct 24 '12 at 12:29
@Lex - the paper or foil faced batts are stapled from the bottom side of the ceiling joist with the fiberglass fit up between the joists. – Michael Karas Oct 27 '12 at 16:03
@bib - I have also seen wires used to support the batts. They have some advantages such as not stretching but....in most cases the proper width batts simply hold themselves in place. In this case because there may be added insulation placed above the batts before the drywall is installed the use of plastic strips is an easy / quick method. Think of plastic on a roll similar to the common yellow "caution tape". I simply cut 4" wide strips off the end of a roll of poly. – Michael Karas Oct 27 '12 at 16:10

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