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The space for the refrigerator is more narrow than I'd like. Both sides have a wall/panel extending from the cabinets above. The space is 33"w x 72"h. The new fridge would likely by 36"w x 70"h (covering a light switch a little). Picture here:

Space for refrigerator

I've basically only come up with one solution: Saw off left side just below cabinet. In this case, what kind of support would I need for the cabinets above?

It would be great if I could preserve the cabinet/housing as is, and simply move the left wall over a little bit, but that doesn't seem trivial.

Thanks!

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2 Answers

Long and boring, but the proper way...

You will have to see how the cabinet is fastened. If it is screwed on the sides to the "walls" of the housing then you need to remove it before removing the "walls"

If the cabinet is screwed on the back- to the actual wall (even id it has side screws) then empty it out completely and you should be able to safely detach the wooden "wall" you want to move.

In this case you will need pad out the extra space in-between the cupboard and wooden wall you are moving with another piece of wood that will fit. You need 3" inches.

A nice way would be to pad both sides of the cabinet with 2" thick pieces of wood to give you an extra 4". Painting it white will make it look like it should be there.

Then you need to screw from inside the right side of the cabinet through the padded wood into the wood of the existing cupboard -- but not so the screw comes out the other side. You need to measure precisely the length. screw in each corner and centre. Then put the left wall back in and screw from the left side inside the cupboard the same again.

You obviously have a problem with the light switch. IF you got enough space inside you could make a square opening in the side "wall" that you are moving and put the switch in there. The wires will be behind the fridge any way - just insulate them with some flex plastic pipe for wires.

The light switch will have to get moved to something similar like this. You can mount it flush /countersink it into the wall you are moving. The biggest problem is cutting out the hole to the correct size. You can go larger but you cant shrink. So be careful and try to fit it several times.

enter image description here

It is not an easy undertaking- but I would not do it any other way.

If you cant be bothered ...

If you cant be bothered doing it the right way. Then put several wall bolts in the back of the cupboard in the corners and centres. Then remove the left "wall" and put your fridge in.

But this will NOT work if you have a drywall behind the fridge.

enter image description here

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I'm with you on way #1, but not #2. If helen can find studs, screwing through horizontal framing braces in the cabinet into the studs should work. If not, any "bolting technique requires direct access to the wall and even then, only a few types are adequate to hold a cabinet. Illustrated is an expansion anchor in concrete which could work (if you got access), but in drywall, etc., it would be a bad idea. –  bib Sep 20 '12 at 11:59
    
Oh yea. Sorry I did not realise there was dry wall behind the cabinet. I did mine recently, also got new fridge. We have brick so I could use heavy duty bolts. For drywall you will to come up with something else. –  ppumkin Sep 20 '12 at 12:07
    
+1 for point #1 –  bib Sep 20 '12 at 12:28
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Point #1 is probably the way to do it. You can probably buy a 3" filler board from the cabinet supplier. My only issue is with the light switch. It will need to be moved, or access will need to be cut out of the side board, which will look a bit messy. –  Chris Cudmore Sep 20 '12 at 14:09
    
Ye- The light switch will need some attention to make it look slick enough. Like i suggested. Counter sinking it into the wall that is getting moved might be a good solution. –  ppumkin Sep 20 '12 at 14:10
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I had exactly this scenario in my house.

What I did was to get a piece of wood that matched the cabinetry and screwed it to the studs to provide a rail for the back of the cabinet to sit on.

I then marked the stud locations inside the cabinet, and screwed it to the studs as well.

Keep in mind that your cabinet back is probably only decorative, so you may need to add some blocking inside to get a good holding bolt. From your picture, it's important to get a good connection in the top left corner.

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