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I am buying a new house (new construction) and it currently has an electric stove. One of the changes we've put in the contract it to 'remove the electric stove and adapt the stove cavity for a gas stove". We're not having them install the new appliance - we're buying that separately. I noticed on the contract that they changed my wording (approx. above) to "Run a gas line to the stove".

The area currently has 220V to the cavity. I'm worried that the gas stove will need a 110V outlet in addition to the gas line (for ignition, convection fans, clock, etc.) Should I be worried that when the new stove arrives, we won't be able to hook it up? Or will it use 220? Or is there a 'simple fix'?

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Your question appears to have been truncated, FYI. (Also, every gas stove with electric features I've seen (U.S.) has had a standard 110V plug, but I'm not an expert on the matter.) –  Kevin Reid Feb 27 '12 at 14:31
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Just saw this and I think that may be my answer. –  Cj S. Feb 27 '12 at 14:31
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I personally prefer to have both the 220v and 110v separate. To me this is just the most straight forward way to do it and the easiest for someone down the road to understand. No reason why what you linked to wouldn't work though. –  Kellenjb Feb 27 '12 at 16:08
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Agree to keep the 220, future owners will thank you. Also I have gas cooktop + electric oven and like it a lot. –  dbracey Feb 27 '12 at 16:59
    
I'd modify the contract: Run gas line to stove, Install 110v/15A receptacle. For future resale, I'd run the 220 line, but not connect it to the panel. –  Chris Cudmore Feb 27 '12 at 21:30
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3 Answers 3

Get the 220v outlet while you can. With that wiring, you can run two 110v circuits in the future or install an electric oven if you change your mind. Running another line in the future would be much more difficult, so now is the time to have it installed. The only change you'll likely have to make is replacing the double breaker with two single breakers if you want 110v, which any electrician should be able to do with minimal effort.

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There are adapters (linked in the comment) specifically for this so you don't have to modify the electrical at all –  Steven Feb 27 '12 at 15:46
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I can't comment on replies yet (at least not these) -- I agree with the receptacle adapter and keeping the 220 circuit as-is. Something else to consider though, is placement of the gas line stub. Some stoves have specific requirements for placement, and not knowing could you require you to have a plumber come in to relocate it. Older stoves had more wiggle room in the back, whereas newer stoves have strict requirements because they engineer the stoves to make maximum use of the space available.

You may want to figure out your stove first, then read the manual and tell them exactly where the stub should be placed. It also couldn't hurt to double-check the clearance needed in the area where the receptacle is located -- an additional adapter like that could prevent you from pushing the stove up against the wall.

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My recommendation for stove, furnace, water heater, and dryer; is to run a 220v, 110v, and gas line while it is still easy to do so. This will maintain flexibility for the future.

The gas lines should have a shutoff on the end, while also as far away from the devices as is feasible. This will limit the chance of otherwise unused pipes from having an unnoticed leak, until you go to use it. ( At which point you should check it anyway. )

The unused electrical lines should either be connected to a breaker normally, or the hot should be grounded.


To some this may seem to be overkill. To them I say "Yeah ... so?".

Everyone can change their minds.

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