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I got a new bathroom vanity (cabinet and sink top). In spite of its high price, the quality is not so good. It's rectangular in width and depth, but it skews like in the picture below when any kind of pressure is applied to any of the sides.

enter image description here

I would like to lock it into shape somehow so that it doesn't move. Even with the sink top on, it still moves. I can tell because the edge of the sink top squeaks against the wall behind it. Rather than fix the symptom by putting something like a rubber strip along the back, I would rather tackle the actual problem. I imagine there is some kind of sturdy metal brace that I can screw in to each of the corners.

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Is this skewing that's occurring vertical or horizontal in nature? –  The Evil Greebo Nov 14 '11 at 17:54
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Standing in front of it, you're facing it's widest dimension. When you grab both sides of it, you can move the right side away from you and the left side toward you and vice versa just like in the pic. I am thinking I may be able apply pressure to all corners of the front of the cabinet so that it's forced in place against the wall while someone else screws it into studs. I will probably have to put a shim under one of the legs, but I am not opposed to that. I'd rather find a way to stabilize it so that I don't have to bother with that, though. –  oscilatingcretin Nov 14 '11 at 18:10
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Ok horizontal. In which case, I'd do exactly what you said - screw it into the wall and shim it with a composite shim. –  The Evil Greebo Nov 14 '11 at 18:11
    
I'll try that later this week. If it works as planned then I will answer my own question. Thanks for reaffirming that for me =D. –  oscilatingcretin Nov 14 '11 at 18:13
    
Greebo nailed it. The vanity MUST be screwed to the wall through the back. Be sure to level it side to side before screwing it to the wall. Shim the front for front to back level. –  shirlock homes Nov 15 '11 at 11:13

2 Answers 2

up vote 2 down vote accepted

Screw it to the wall. A typical vanity has a wood strip along the upper back. Run some screws through the strip into the studs in the wall.

Do not use long screws. You run the risk of screwing a long screw into a pipe in the wall.

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Don't go too short with the screws, I'd suggest 2" screws, since you need to catch the stud. The plumbing really should be vertical behind the vanity. Anyone that runs a line through the studs behind the vanity, within 1" of the face of the stud, and doesn't use a steel safety plate, shouldn't be allowed to do this work. –  BMitch Nov 14 '11 at 20:48
    
BMitch: You are correct. 2" should be enough. The temptation to "use a big screw to hold it securly" can lead to big repairs if you hit a pipe. I've helped fix punctured pipes a few times. There are a lot of other jobs I would rather do. –  Scott Bruns Nov 14 '11 at 21:03
    
We've had a few scares with people nailing the framing blindly on a floor with in-floor heating, so I completely understand the concern. The 2" figures you have 1/2" wood on the back of the vanity, 1/2" drywall, and 1" of safe space you can screw into a stud. After that 1" in the stud, I don't think the safety plates are required and you're rolling the dice. –  BMitch Nov 14 '11 at 21:20

The vanity should be attached to the wall but it should have been leveled first before being fasted to the wall with screws. Slide wood shims underneath the feet of the vanity and then fasten the vanity to the wall. You can cut the shingles so they aren't visible and then leave them in there.

Here are more instructions on how to install a free standing vanity.

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Are you affiliated in any way with the blog you've linked to? –  Tester101 Sep 25 at 21:39

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